To remedy looking too dark and too foreboding it's necessary to use a contrast fabric to your wool or suede and the ideal fabric is of course either brightly coloured cotton or silk. The brightness of silk, as we are often told by luminaries like Will Boehlke of A Suitable Wardrobe, is what offsets the muted colours of wool and it is for this reason that one often uses a silk pocket square or tie to balance the softer colours of wool. In saying this, however, as wool has become finer and finer over the last three decades, wool tends to be more sheer and therefore refracts more light. Where you are using a super 150's or more fine wool, my advice is that you don't need as bright a colour on your silk as you might have used in the past has when your wool was duller.
Overall, coming into autumn first, the trends seem to be browns and greys this season and to wear a suit with either a long sleeve polo or turtle neck. If you choose either of these combinations, my advice is to wear something in your pocket, on your lapel or around your neck to break up the depths of colour.
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