Let's face it, not all of us stay thin and lean all our lives like Edward Sexton below. I think one could safely assume Sexton has had the same or similar shape all his life which is a wonderful thing really because as a tailor he gets to perfect his art over time on the same block (himself).
Edward Sexton's look below is particularly elegant because it understands proportions and those proportions and/or relationships work well despite this suit being framed on a smaller torso. The three elements I wish to note are as follows:
A: The roped shoulder is a way of cleanly making a defining break between the shoulder and the sleeve /sleeve head which sometimes gets very blurred on soft shouldered Italian styled suits where the shoulder and sleeve meld. This kind of shoulder is a particularly English Savile Row look. Also note the curvature of the sleeve head as it falls away from the shoulder and along the chest line. This is magnificent work when you consider all the interacting shapes.
B: On first glance one might assume the lapel is over-sized but in actual fact the proportions are perfect as you follow the curvature of the sleeve head it very nearly follows the line of the lapel thus it almost takes on the appearance of two roads that are beginning to fork.
C: The length of the jacket is also admirable. After so many years of watching Young Turks turn up to Pitti with jackets finishing around their belt line it is nice to see that many tailors and their customers are returning to length. It was particularly refreshing to see last week some work from Sydney tailor Patrick Johnson that eschewed contemporary lengths and was in fact heading in the opposite direction towards the knee. Edward Sexton has really understood proportions in the jacket below by giving the generous lapels enough length in the jacket to allow the jacket enough room to comfortably drape the silhouette. At least that is my opinion.
Finally, note Sexton's high shirt collar stand with matching elongated peaked collar which is a signature of his house. You can purchase their shirts here on the Edward Sexton website. The shirt is possibly one of the only shirts on the market that really adequately provides for that elegant use of large lapels in double breasted suits although to my personal taste it is too peaked.
So, if you are heading off to your tailor soon for a spring addition to your wardrobe, consider asking for a harder shoulder with a more robust roping, be generous in your lapels and consider lengthening your jacket at the first fitting.
|Photo: The Rake Magazine|