The Mercury On Textiles Definitions

Basket Weaves

An extension of the plain weave, both in the length and width, and giving a matt weave; also known as "hopsack weave". When the principle is extended to 16-shafts or more the floats of the warp and weft are stitched to bind the design to give a firm fabric, these are fancy basket weaves as used in the woollen and worsted trades.

Bird's-Eye Pattern

A small designed based on the diamond principle, with a small dot in the centre of each figure. Used for dobby and jacquard effects as a ground weave. Almost any design that gives a small spot of colour can be included under this term.

Chain Stitch (Embroidery)

One of the most ancient of embroideries, and first brought from the East, where it is still done by Persians, Indians and Chinese. It was done on any material and in all kinds of thread, gold, silver, silk, cotton etc. The stitch is much is in ornamenting Church fabrics. Tambour work is a chain stitch done with a hook instead of a needle.

Challis

An all wool muslin delaine, printed in somewhat faint designs. Made from very fine yarns in plain weave about 54-in. A soft dress finish is given to the cloth. Originally the challis was made with a silk warp and worsted weft, but imitations were put on the market, some with cotton warp and wool weft, others had cotton and wool mixed warp and weft. Also made all cotton in 24-in and 36-in finished widths, and used for cheap dresses in America. Made plain weave about 80 x 96 per inch, 50's/60's, printed and dyed.

Chambray

A light-weight cotton or linen dress fabric, plain weave, weighing 13 or 14 yars to the pound. Great similarity to a soft finished cambric fabric, made in 27-in to 30-in widths. A gingham style of check or strip has has this term applied to it, the cloth being plain weave, and printed in checks or stripes with white slevedges. Such as 32-in, finished, 68 x 52 per inch, made from good American yarns, about 32's/30's. Used for overalls, aprons and children's dresses.

More definitions to come. This book is thoroughly enjoyable.