One of the things I note about the tailor Edward Sexton is that he understands that with a bigger lapel you must proportionately increase the size of the collar and collar stand.
A standard collar that we make is roughly 8cm. The narrow collars, that went hand in hand with the trend for that Christian Dior narrow suit lapel look several years ago, were about 4cm. With generous Tom Ford / Savile Row/ Edward Sexton looking proportions trending more and more into the mainstream, you will be hard pressed to find companies that are offering shirt collars to match, which, as a general rule of thumb will still be approximately 8cm but with a higher stand nearing 4cm.
One collar which I have been experimenting with recently which I think is superbly under-rated is a higher collar stand with a curved cutaway with a concealed button down collar. That's a lot of descriptives for one collar. So, essentially this is what happens. We heighten the collar stand to allow for a bigger collar. The collar is then made in a curved cutaway style so that you can fit a larger knot for a tie such as a generous double four in hand or bow tie. Then we add the concealed button down which gives versatility for when you don't wear a tie but wish to retain structure and curve in the collar.
The result is that we have a collar which sits well with the proportions of a wider peaked lapel or generous shawl. It has the benefit of being worn underneath a jacket of this size without splaying owing to the concealed button down. If you choose to wear a neck tie with it too, the concealed button down also allows you to keep that beautiful curved appearance of the collar after the knot has been tied.
This is a collar worthy of your consideration.
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