More From StreetFsn

Style Blogger Shows Off White Denim

In my opinion white denim is one of the greatest pieces of denim you can have in your wardrobe. It cleans all ensembles up and is completely versatile and looks great in winter with a heavy jacket and a scarf. White denim is not just for summer - it is for whenever there is sunshine.

If You Live In The U.S.A & You Like Le Noeud Papillon

If you are in the United States and you wish to purchase one of our bow ties, it may be cheaper given the current exchange rate to seek your bows from Tie Deals, our re-seller in the United States: 

http://www.tiedeals.com/bowties/bowties_LeNoeudPapillon.htm

Limited Edition Amanda

If you are interested in this bow then please contact us directly through the contacts page of www.lenoeudpapillon.com

Henry - A Bow For The Chameleon

Henry is a dual sided sided bow so that you can get two bows out of one. We are offering these in skinny 4cm batwing bows. These will be a limited edition run and will be less expensive as they use less silk. Available only on www.lenoeudpapillon.com 

To Celebrate Our New Diamond Point!

A diamond point bow tie for men with a longer, slimmer or shaper face is a suitable alternative to the classic butterfly shape. 

Dicky - A New Shape In Velvet Pre-Formed Bow Ties

SHOP THE LATEST DESIGNS IN BOTH VELVET AND SILK BY CLICKING HERE

WWW.LENOEUDPAPILLON.COM

Using luxury velvet from Holland & Sherry we set out to create a new kind of pre-formed bow tie - one that looked and felt like it had been tied by hand. This is the result.

Hunter - A New Shape Within Our Collection

Thanks to Hunter from Los Angeles, who found an old bow tie and passed on it's dimensions and shape to us. The result - a brand new diamond point in the collection. 

Jacket #7, My Take On A Navy Blazer

This was my take on a navy blazer. Two things to note: 1. I used a shawl collar because I was tired of having the same notched lapel on every blazer I owned. 2. I used one button a la Huntsman rather than the traditional two. I wanted something extremely simple. A blazer you just popped on or off very casually. We used a Holland and Sherry wool on this one and the blue piping was slightly different which gave it a nice subtle contrast. The shawl is 4cm - which is slim by 70's standards for a shawl but I think the right size for 2011.

The highs: It is very simple to wear.The buttons are Holland & Sherry anchors in gold metal. Very durable sturdy buttons.

The lows: The shoulder pads are too heavy and feel a little 80's to me. I would have preferred a softer shoulder for this more casual look.

A Pause Between Jackets

This is a Dormeuil cloth we will be running for a wedding suit over the coming months. It is 67% super 180's wool, 25% silk and 8% Kirgyz wool. I was advised by the Dormeuil agent that it was a superlative wool worth considering so I put the sample in the right hands and I was given a green light. This should be an interesting project however there will be no before and after photos for this wedding as the client is very discreet.

Jacket #6, To Really Push The Boundaries

This jacket was developed in conjunction with a wedding party suit that was being made for an old mate's wedding in which I was to be the master of ceremonies. I decided to add a little flair for the occasion by donning this jacket for the speeches. The silk, which is a male and female skeleton with a heart between them, was supposed to be a metaphor for 'marriage - till death do us part'. You can guess by now that I am a little obsessed with shawl collars.

The highs: It is magnificent to look at and the lapel is made from a heavier mogador black satin silk on the lapel which looks so elegant as a shawl lapel.

The lows: You can't wear this jacket more than one or twice before it's over-baked. Such a shame.

Jacket #5, White Silk With Polka Dots - An Experiment

It was when I ordered too much silk for the Georgie Porgie bow tie that I decided to work with woven jacquard silk in the next jacket project. Having spent a lot of time working with silks with  respect to bows and wool with jackets, I was interested in seeing if you could replace the wool component in a jacket for silks which were designed for ties. Silk which is made for jackets is lighter and more flexible and is often mixed with wool or cashmere. Our silks were designed specifically for ties and bow ties, and were completely 100% silk - so it was essentially an experiment.

The highs: The finish was amazingly bright and eye catching. The polka dots gave off a real brilliance and attracted a lot of people's attention.

The lows: It was our first time working with silk  -and the silk lacked some of the structural characteristics of wool. In places such as the collar, if the jacket was not pressed firmly, the felt would show after the course of the evening as the jacket lost shape. The silk polka dots also fray if rubbed against a surface too often - so it was a jacket that needed to be looked after. Sadly, this was also the final time that I would use a third party to do the jacket. The time taken between fittings was far too long and the jacket wasn't delivered on time which meant that I eventually found a workroom which would subsequently do all my work for me. Contracting to third party tailors who nearly all use the same workroom in Sydney no longer made any sense for me. It was the big magical trick of Sydney tailors - to tell you that they had some master craftsman who was their big secret - grand stories of where they were trained or how they came to be in Australia.... All smoke and mirrors unfortunately. I could tell some great stories here but it's best I shut my mouth. No doubt others out there will chuckle at this paragraph.

Jacket #4. White Dinner Jacket With Satin Shawl Collar & Black Piping

The genesis of this jacket was seeing a photo of Justin Timberlake turning up to a Hollywood summer party in a white dinner jacket with black piping. I immediately wanted to set out to improve upon the jacket he was wearing but create something similar looking. At this stage my shirt maker told me to go and meet up with Carl Sciarra, who is one of the bright shining lights of Australian fashion but at this stage has probably not had a chance to show off his talents. Carl showed me a new mode of designing - which involved adding and subtracting elements using a vector graphics programme like Illustrator. I was highly impressed with how quickly he could transfer my ideas onto Illustrator. And by the end of the first meeting I wanted to invest in a joint venture but unfortunately nothing came of it.

The highs: The jacket was made in Naples and some of the details included are signatures of Carl - like the 'Sciarra' embroidered in the right hand side. The lining was printed in China and then shipped to Naples, so it was a logistics process which was quite exciting.

The lows: The shawl collar was another let down. It wasn't padded so it didn't roll nicely and the satin used felt like it wasn't of substantial quality - so I was a little disappointed since the rest of the jacket was full bodied and felt terrific.

A Great Psychoanalyst In Sydney

Anne Lambert currently works from Patternoster Row in Pyrmont. She's good at what she does. One of the first things she ever said to me was 'anger is always demonised in Western society, when really, it is a natural animal emotion to feel - how we respond to anger is what we need to address'. She had me from then on. More recently she was quoting Carl Rogers on the idea that we cannot change without first accepting what is our current state of existence. The human mind is our greatest tool - so anything you can do to protect or invest in it is worthwhile in my opinion.

Anne works with Creative Counsel - anne@creativecounsel.com.au or 1300 96 99 29.

Jacket #3, Experimental: Midnight Blue Tuxedo With White Piping And Velvet Collar

In 2009 I created this midnight blue tuxedo using Matthew Lawrence of Paddington, Sydney. I had created a bow tie called the Yves which was midnight blue satin with white piping and I wished to create a tuxedo which would compliment it. In the final analysis I think I went too far. I think I could have pulled back on one or two elements although it is outrageous enough to be tongue in cheek.

We used a Thomas Fisher 140 wool (could be 150, I would need to check) and this wool was exceptional. The photos do not do the tuxedo justice.

The highs: It was the first time I had a chance to work on the details of pants, which on their own are very cool, slim cut, stove pipe trousers with white detail on the jets of the pockets.

The lows: I grew tired of the piping and the velvet on the collar - after a while I wanted something more traditional but this kind of dinner suit can only be worn to fun events, nothing serious. The jacket was rushed towards the end and this meant that quality of production suffered. Further, the satin on the lapels was not thick and plush and the jacket was very rigid and cardboardy. If I had my time again I would have taken more  time to oversee this project.

Jackt #2, YSL 2008 2 Button Peaked Lapel Dinner Jacket

I picked this up at the Rive Gauche store near St Sulpice in June 2008 - that store is now shut down. This particular jacket is one of the finest crafted jackets I possess. The lapel is thick and plush, the silk soft to the touch. The lining is luxurious and detailed well beyond my expectation of an off-the-rack jacket. I adored the subtle details like 'Le Smoking' embroidered into the inside pocket. It is a shame a jacket like this spends most of its life in a suit cover. My only complaint is that it is two button and not a single button in the traditional sense. 

Jacket # 1: Where It All Began, A Smoking Jacket

It all began here, with a smoking jacket. It was late 2008 and I had sold my share of my nightclub. I was googling one evening 'smoking jackets' because on the inside of all black tie jackets from Yves St Laurent there is embroidered 'Le Smoking' which is so cool (you will see the YSL jacket in future posts). This was before Tom Ford's collection, before smoking jackets had made a come back. So in this respect I considered myself 'avant garde' and earned the moniker 'The Australian Tom Ford' from my cousin who teased me after Tom Ford released his collection saying that he had ripped off my idea. I loved it. Made me feel 10 feet tall.

So I found myself in the St James Trust building and I met a guy inside Rochefort called Clint and this was the beginning of it all. The jacket is made of Holland & Sherry black velvet (Sydney Office +612 9267 8030). There is piping all around the jacket in black and there is frogging, which needed to be sourced, across the front of the shawl collar jacket.

The highs: Finding the frogging was a major effort - but they managed to get a hold of it thanks to Clint's efforts. The final look of the jacket is fantastic overall.

The lows: Stitching marks are all through the inside of the jacket where the frogging was attached. The shawl lapel silk also had a grain instead of being a satin finish. The jacket does not always close correctly because the maker had little experience with finishing the jacket with frogging.

As for the cloth, it continues to amaze people when I wear it. Holland and Sherry velvet is wonderful stuff.

Jackets

I am working on some blog posts which will feature jackets I have both bought and made, the highs, the lows, the quality, the fabrics, the makers, the brands etc etc. Stay tuned.

StreetFsn Keeps Rolling It Out

This a prolific and amazing set of photos. I have only been referring to the men's clothes on the Street Fsn blog, because this blog is about 'anything to to with bow ties' - but there is a lot more to discover on http://streetfsn.blogspot.com/ by way of women's fashion. What I am noting at the moment is the level of colour and contrast that people are experimenting with. And to call it 'Dandy' is not enough. Because it's fashion for me in a new paradigm - you have men dressed, well, like dandys, but with tattoos all over their body and scruffy finishes, then you have the Italian prep of salmon and yellow mixed with navy, or the New York sidewalk pink vest with mid blue trousers or button braces, then the New York traditional prep. Who is to say what is going on at the moment. Which is what makes it so enjoyable. Despite all these men turning up to these events looking 'dandyish' - they are all such striking individuals - make no mistake - this is not a 'movement' as such - it's not even operating in splinter cells - it is every man for himself. It is great to be alive at the moment and to witness this going on - from the streets of Harlem, to Florence, to Milan to Tokyo. The world is doing as it pleases at the moment - well, with respect to men's fashion that is.

The funniest thing of all is that it must be perplexing and styming the big designers everywhere as to how to design for the new 'trend' because no one can really put their finger on it. Designers at the moment have to look at seasonal directions and plan long into the future, whereas this mob of fashion forward men are likely to be using a tailor to have a look ready within four to six weeks. It is a true 'up yours' to the fashion Establishment. How cool.

Tony Bilson - An Icon Of Australia Food

Tony Bilson is one of Australia's most iconic chefs and always wears a bow tie. And what a lovely bow tie he is wearing in this photo. His restaurant, Bilsons, is located in the Sydney CBD. Book here: http://www.bilsons.com.au/

Source: Sydney Morning Herald.

iTailor - An Online Store For Full Bespoke Shirts

I have to be very honest here, I just received my iTailor shirt and I am astonished how good it is for $30AUD. Ok, the cotton is not great, a little canvassy in feel, but wow, for $30AUD I inserted my measurements for a complete customised shirt in pink, with grandpa collar, red cuffs, red inner layer to my french fly front and red trim on the inside collar. Le Noeud Papillon produces bespoke shirts here in Sydney, so I know how much work goes into a bespoke shirt, especially with this kind of detail - so, if you don't care about the quality of your cotton, take a look at iTailor on www.itailor.com .

AFTERTHOUGHT!!!! I put the shirt in the wash and it shrank badly. Be careful with these shirts - all that glitters, in the end, was not gold. And the cotton irritated my skin. Such a shame. I loved it. Still, worth the experience.

This Scene Never Fails To Get A Laugh - Reminds Me Of The Tony Awards

An Article From The Sydney Morning Herald

Sharply dressed characters
Steve Dow June 17, 2011

Sharp dresser ... Mad Men's Don Draper.

Men are increasingly taking inspiration from the sartorial influences of the reel world and suiting up for the occasion, writes Steve Dow.
If filmmaker Baz Luhrmann delivers on his promise to remake F. Scott Fitzgerald's classic Prohibition-era story The Great Gatsby, he could be joining an emerging fashion trend.
The opulence of the 1920s has helped the New Jersey mobster TV series Boardwalk Empire make its mark on men's tailoring, both overseas and in Australia.
In the spirit of a cashed-up Atlantic City gambler, Melbourne designer and retailer Arthur Galan has bet on three-piece suits, rich fabrics such as velvet and, as an option, big bow ties. "Neo-preppy", he calls the look in his autumn-winter collections, but the pre-Depression era influence is unmistakable: one model, with slicked-back hair and a shearling fur-trimmed coat, has a super-fine woollen top over a shirt buttoned almost to his Adam's apple.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/style/sharply-dressed-characters-20110615-1g3o8.html#ixzz1PsgE0LFe

Very Enjoyable!

New & Lingwood - A UK Online Retailer With Flair

A friend just sent me an email to check out this retailer in the UK and I thought I would pass it on, it's very cool, super British.

http://www.newandlingwood.com

STREETFSN - Posting Great Content

In case you have not already heard about it - here is the link again: http://streetfsn.blogspot.com/

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Little White Lies - A Fantastic French Film By Guillaume Canet

If you have not seen this film, I recommend you go see it before it's taken off the big screen. It's showing at Cinema Paris at Fox Studios, Sydney. With a hint of 'The Big Chill', great classic music and many interweaving stories, it was wonderful to the end despite it's length which was a little taxing. The opening scene, where Ludo leaves Le Baron nightclub in the 8th on his scouter after a big night, heading across the river until he gets smacked by a dump truck, was particularly good cinematography and full of suspense.

Limor Babai Of Double Bay Meditation Sydney Shares Some Wisdom

Limor Babai of Double Bay Meditation Centre in Sydney, Australia now keeps a blog which documents and refers to articles which show the scientific benefits of meditation.

Whilst I learnt meditation from Gary Gorrow of The Subtle Science, I have had an ongoing relationship with Limor Babai - who has becoming something of a spiritual guru for me. This week she has posted an article on 'adaptive energy'. If you live in Sydney and are looking for a way out of anger and stress then look no further than the Double Bay Meditation Centre. I was no stranger to anger, frustration, sleeplessness, anxiety - and whilst I still suffer from these things from time to time, I truly believe that meditation has been a great big blessing for me. Whilst meditation can come in many forms, this particular technique has resonated with me.

Check out Limor's latest blog entry here: http://doublebaymeditation.blogspot.com/2011/06/meditation-boosts-adaptation-energy.html

Vintage Early Greek Australian Shop Owners

At a family friend's apartment the other night I was shown this photo of an elderly lady's father who came to Australia in the early 1900's. He carved a life for himself in rural Queensland where he began to lease land to graze sheep and doing well he used the proceeds to buy his first store. Here he stands proud with his brothers and they are of course wearing.... bow ties... which immediately caught my eye. This is a wonderful photo and I am proud of the heritage that embodies so many migrant families, especially the Greeks, who came to Australia with next to nothing.

Awesome People Hanging Out Together - A Tumblr Blog

A blog that dedicates itself to fantastic people in each other's company. How quirky. This one was from Harlem and features Jazz greats in it. http://awesomepeoplehangingouttogether.tumblr.com/ 

STREETFSN - A Blog Documenting Pitti 2011 Men's Fashion Right Now

Go take a look for yourself, this is a terrific blog.  http://streetfsn.blogspot.com/ . There is a Peacock Revolution or Renaissance emerging in men's fashion. This really is an amazing time for men - we are definitely steering towards a new course. The colours are vibrant and playful and there is a respect for tradition whilst embracing the new at the same time.