Thursday, August 18, 2011
Wear A Bow Tie... Some Advice From ASW's Will Boehlke
The bow tie is really under-appreciated, in my opinion. I guess that is only natural when neckties of any kind are increasingly rare away from the office, for it is on social occasions that the bow tie finds its place. Too idiosyncratic for most professions, bow ties are a perfect change of pace for cocktail parties and the like. They say the occasion is a special one, worthy of a little extra effort.
It is that sort of extra effort that in my opinion separates the well dressed from the rest of us. Cary Grant looks natural in his neckerchiefs and ascots in To Catch a Thief, while those around him are open collared or conventionally four in handed. And that is not because he is Cary Grant, but rather because, done tastefully, those little touches of respect for those around him are well received. See for yourself, the next time you are headed to a cocktail party. Wear a bow tie.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Sessions Part 2 - Strong Men Also Cry
“Is this the same Jeremy you talked about a few weeks ago?”
“Yes. The same. ‘Every time a friend succeeds, a small part of me dies’. I do subscribe to that Vidal quote. I think I carry over a lot of bitterness over Jeremy.
The dream is always the same. No, that is unfair to say. The dream is the same theme but it differs in the genre and setting. So what was different this time? I couldn’t really say. When I arrived at the cobble stoned street it was light. But by the time I saw him....
A Testimonial
Hello Le Noeud Papillon Sydney,
I must admit, you have really tapped into my sense of style. I don't think you've had any new additions that I haven't thought looked amazing, and even as I placed this order I was thinking of the next. In fact, I wish in retrospect that I'd added a Graphite to this order — but I need not fret, there's always next time. So needless to say I'm really looking forward to getting that Candy.
I'm sure you're quite tired of my praise by now, so I'll just say this: I've been looking around for bow ties I like for some time now, and your collection is my favourite by far. I have a few by some other labels (some of which are pretty notable), but yours make up the bulk of my collection, and with good reason. I'm very glad you do what you do.
Sincerely,
B.P.
Paris, I Dream Of You - Click To Enlarge
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| If this image belongs to you - please email me on bow@lenoeudpapillon.com so that I can credit you. |
The irony of 'Midnight In Paris' for me was that it showed me that the Paris I thought I had found was simply the Paris most non-Parisians go searching for. Having dined at most of the restaurants in the film - from Polidor, Le Grand Vefour, The Meurice, Braserrie Lipp (I took OW there for the first time) - it really was a trip down memory lane but it made me feel like a huge walking cliche. Something funny to note, at least my interpretation, is that contrary to the movie's portrayal, the Lost Generation did not all congregate together that frequently - nor did they have that much money to party and drink. Most of them, including Fitzgerald and Hemingway, struggled financially during this period. If I am wrong, please leave a comment below.
Alex, I Owe You An Apology
A bespoke shirt customer asked me during a consultation 'What do you think about white collar and white cuff on a black shirt for say a Friday night?". I shook my head and responded "unless you sing soul, play a saxophone or own a nudie magazine, you might not pull it off". Then I saw how well this look was translated on Kato in 'The Green Hornet'. Granted, they are superheroes, but I think my shirting customer could pull it off and so I owe him an apology. Now he just needs to find the right braces.
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| Kato wears a black poplin shirt with white grandpa collar and white club cuff with black braces. Warning: this look would more likely suit a slimmer 'Dior' styled body. |
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
I'd Like A Variation Of This For This Coming Australian Summer
And to vary it up - I'd use yellow jeans, a white cotton jacket, a yellow cravatte, white shirt, no vest (it's too hot here) and yellow suede car shoes. What do you think? This was originally posted on A Suitable Wardrobe.
How To Wear A Midnight Blue Tuxedo - Nice Work Jeremy.
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| There is only one problem with this look - he chose a slim batwing, which for the size of this shawl collar, looks too slim and too hard edged against the softer curves of the shawl. And the bow looks to not be matching as a silk with the lapel. Otherwise, killer look. |
Sessions - Strong Men Also Cry Blog
http://strong-men-also-cry.blogspot.com/2011/08/sessions.html
Checking his messages on his phone and then staring at the bookshelf, he did not know what it was he wanted to say when finally they would meet. He had wrestled with himself in sleep the night before, scared to his wits end by a dream in which he was belittled and made to feel infinitesimally small and reminded of his insignificance. But when it came to define the dream the following morning he was stuck as to how he could put words to adequately describe the shame. Shame had been featuring heavily lately, creeping into his thoughts about his work, his relationship. Questions of whether he owned his own work or whether he was an imposter, questions of whether his love was real or whether everything he attacked her about was in itself a reflection of all his own shortcomings. Coupled with these dreams he felt the shame merging with insignificance and he felt completely paralysed.
Checking his messages on his phone and then staring at the bookshelf, he did not know what it was he wanted to say when finally they would meet. He had wrestled with himself in sleep the night before, scared to his wits end by a dream in which he was belittled and made to feel infinitesimally small and reminded of his insignificance. But when it came to define the dream the following morning he was stuck as to how he could put words to adequately describe the shame. Shame had been featuring heavily lately, creeping into his thoughts about his work, his relationship. Questions of whether he owned his own work or whether he was an imposter, questions of whether his love was real or whether everything he attacked her about was in itself a reflection of all his own shortcomings. Coupled with these dreams he felt the shame merging with insignificance and he felt completely paralysed.
He squeezed his fingers into his palm and felt them cold. A door opened upstairs and soft murmurs could be heard. He turned his head as the previous patient walked past, opening the door swiftly and exiting leaving only a small faint scent of perfume.
“You are not the owner of your work, you are merely a conduit for the Great Creator” he thought recalling some self-help book. He reached for his journal and made his way to the stairwell. There she stood, looking down at him with an empathetic expression which immediately disarmed him and brought to the forefront all he wished to tell her.
“You look lovely today” he said, “You’ve dressed perfectly for the weather”.
“Oh” she said with a stammered puff of air which denoted an unreasoned fondness, “thank you, it was cold and wet this morning so I decided to wear boots”. Her voice, which was soft, and might be described as mousy, was in fact considered and more potent for its lightness.
He sank himself into the armchair and placed his journal on the side table. She smoothed out her skirt and neatly crossed her left leg over her right, as she always did, and studied him to ascertain where she thought he might be heading today.
“I had a dream”
“Oh, well, let’s start with that” she said with disarming ease.
“And I wrote my journal. But I will start with the dream. This was a variation of the one I told you about that other time. You know how I got caught stuck on that mountain top in the aeroplane with my cousin and my other friend and I was about to fall out. Well, it’s not exactly the same, but it is similar” and then he slowed his movements and took the journal out to guide himself.
“I was selling pots or pans – I don’t know, they seemed to be special, or especially designed for some purpose. And I was happy. I think I might have been involved with the company or had some stake in it. But then I passed a street one day where, well, I wasn’t sure what kind of a place it was really, it could be Paris, it could be Rome, and it could be Sydney. I just don’t know how to describe it other than there were cobbled stones. You know when a new city sometimes fabricates the look of an old city. It was new but it was old. And there I was with a suitcase full of items and I was busy thinking about my business when I came across Jeremy Winterbotham.”
Monday, August 15, 2011
This Is The Next Jacket I Will Work On
I have decided on my next jacket project - the re-birth of a classic - the evening shawl collar double breasted jacket as worn by Sam in Casablanca. Wish me luck. I will make further posts as I begin to choose fabrics, buttons and cuts.
Coen Young - An Emerging Talent In The Contemporary Australian Art Scene
One day soon after we opened my/our bar, we decided to 'funk' up the walls of the back alley where our bar entrance was in Kings Cross. It had a red lacquered door - which I had done - and not very well I might say - and it was surrounded by matt black walls and ceilings.
Anyway, so we bought a whole bunch of spray paints from the art store on Oxford Street and we went for it. I think we wrote 'Shh' all over the place, drew outlines of dead bodies on the walls and pavement, maybe threw in some hearts and some other symbols we felt relevant. None of us were really artistically inclined in that manner. After a month or so we decided that we would give our bartender Coen Young a go at the task of revitalising the wall. Coen was a young artist so anything he could muster would surely improve upon our efforts. The following day I came to work to find a massive surging tiger move from the right of the wall to the left. I am pleased to say he has developed his talent - although I am not sure it will be his final mode of expression. Here are some of his latest works and a few old photos from the bar.
Anyway, so we bought a whole bunch of spray paints from the art store on Oxford Street and we went for it. I think we wrote 'Shh' all over the place, drew outlines of dead bodies on the walls and pavement, maybe threw in some hearts and some other symbols we felt relevant. None of us were really artistically inclined in that manner. After a month or so we decided that we would give our bartender Coen Young a go at the task of revitalising the wall. Coen was a young artist so anything he could muster would surely improve upon our efforts. The following day I came to work to find a massive surging tiger move from the right of the wall to the left. I am pleased to say he has developed his talent - although I am not sure it will be his final mode of expression. Here are some of his latest works and a few old photos from the bar.
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| A rose is a rose is a rose - taken from Gertrude Stein's poem 'Sacred Emily" - this neon light installation is to my understanding an eternal link suggesting that a 'thing' might remain itself throughout time despite change. |
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| Installation spherical button-like shapes wall mounted. |
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| Shh! The original graffiti in Mansion Lane, Kings Cross. |
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| Screen printed on stretched cloth. Coen Young can be contacted on coen@coenyoung.com |
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Thank You Andrew Williams Of Men's Flair & Linkson Jack
http://www.mensflair.com/shopping-guide/le-noeud-papillon-and-linkson-jackson.php
"It’s funny how despite being a grown man I still get a slight buzz when returning home to find a parcel on the doorstep - even more so when it’s actually for me.
"It’s funny how despite being a grown man I still get a slight buzz when returning home to find a parcel on the doorstep - even more so when it’s actually for me.
But who can blame me when what’s inside is one of Nicholas Atgemis’ beautiful bow ties. Nicholas is the founder of newish and upcoming Australian label Le Noeud Papillon. Just in case you were wondering, the name translates as ‘the knot of the butterfly’ and is how the French refer to bow ties. An unusual choice of name for a Sydney based label you might think. But that French connection makes itself felt through much of the collection of bows, ties and accessories, all of which possess a certain bohemian joie de vivre.
Now, I can’t claim any credit for discovering this label, those laurels belong to Will at A Suitable Wardrobe. I highly recommend you listen to the interview between Will and Nicholas which is still available as a podcast on iTunes. I’d also recommend Nicholas’ blog which is attached to his website."
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Magnus Omme Blog
My old fashion photographer seems to be going from strength to strength. He is currently documenting the Copenhagen Fashion week - see more here: http://blog.magnusomme.com/
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| I love these glasses. Reminds me of Graz's Joel model. |
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Harrolds Sydney - Westfield's Centrepoint - A Home For Creed Perfumes
Firstly, I would just like to mention Creed. I first heard about Creed in the posts of James Andrew of 'What is James Wearing'. He practically never went a day without wearing it. I had never heard of it until then, so I asked a friend and he said 'Oh yeah, it's the real deal and you can hardly find anyone that sells it'. That wasn't quite right - it is sold here but in very few places - and Harrolds is one such place.
Harrolds used to be in Martin Place, Sydney. It was a great location and when you walked in you were always greeted by Vic next to the cashier or one of the other floor staff. Then they moved to Westfields and it was a while before I made the journey up the street. In the end it was well worth the walk.
The finishes, the details, the merchandising, the segmentation of the spaces was the first thing that struck me. It was all so well balanced and well defined. A room for black tie, a room for suits, a room for sportier / more casual wear. There was a room for this and a room for that and it was so enjoyable just to aimlessly go from here to there. I once again felt incredibly guilty for leaving without purchasing anything.
However, I can now report that I have purchased something from Harrolds - a bottle of Creed Virgin Island Water. After having Vic and Gino look after me very well on Friday I was meandering about when I stumbled upon the Creed section. I tried nearly all of them and my nose was pretty much desensitized from the whole affair when I got a rush of coconut and lime and summer holidays and oils and balmy breezy nights all from this one fruity little bottle of Virgin Island Water. Sold! I felt like Anton from Ratatouille - sent through time and space back to a happy childhood memory in the midst of this dreary winter (actually, that particular day was like a slice of summer in winter {24c}). And, I was so impressed that I wanted to tell you people about it.
The thing about perfumes is that they are subjective to each individual, so I suggest you try them all too.
And women, listen up, I don't ever want to hear you say that you couldn't find us a gift! Between Harrolds, Claude Sebastian, The Strand Hatters and ..... Peter's of Kensington.... please don't ever come home empty handed on our birthdays again. A voucher will not suffice.
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| Creed Virgin Island Water |
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| The Entrance To Harrolds New Sydney Store |
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A Suitable Wardrobe's Will Gives Us A Dressing Down
"One of the difficult things about summer is that adherence to proper custom can sometimes place a man in dire straits, sartorially speaking. Take, for example, George Hamilton and Nick Foulkes in their summer suits in Antibes, France last year. The event was in the evening, so naturally that meant black shoes. I have worn them together myself but, sadly, black shoes and cream or white suits are not a match made in heaven. Better a light colored jacket with dark trousers. " WB
I must say, I have worn black boots with white trousers, white shirt and a black jumper and I didn't mind the whole monochromatic thing but I think Will is right on the money with respect to the the picture above.
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